What Is the Dreadlocks Hairstyle?

Dreadlocks, commonly called locs, are sections of hair that have been twisted, matted, or cultivated into rope-like strands. They’ve been worn for centuries across Egyptian, Indian, Greek, and African cultures. In the barbershop, locs are both a style and a commitment. You’re not setting the client up for a look that lasts a few weeks. This is months and years.

The process starts with two-strand twists or coils that lock over time as the hair grows and the strands intertwine. How long that takes depends on the texture. Type 4 coily hair locks fastest because of its tight curl pattern, usually 6 to 12 months. Looser textures (type 2 and 3) can take 18 months or longer and need more product hold to get there.

Locs come in different sizes. Micro locs (pencil-thin) give the client more styling options. They can pull them into updos, ponytails, braids. Traditional-sized locs (about pinky-finger width) are the most common. Thick, freeform locs grow with minimal manipulation for an organic, natural look.

Dreadlocks work on every face shape and suit clients who want a style that grows and changes with them over time.

How to Start Dreadlocks

Your role is the initial setup and ongoing retwisting. Here’s how to get a client started.

Comb Coil Method (Best for Short Hair, Type 4 Texture)

1. Wash and condition the hair. Start with clean, product-free hair. Use a clarifying shampoo to strip any buildup. Skip heavy conditioner here. Too much slip makes it harder for the hair to coil.
2. Section the hair. Use a rat-tail comb to part the hair into a grid pattern. Section size determines loc size. Smaller sections (about the size of a pencil eraser) produce thinner locs. Larger sections produce thicker ones. Keep the sections consistent across the entire head.
3. Apply locking gel. A small amount of locking gel or beeswax per section. Don’t overdo it. Too much product creates buildup that’s a nightmare to wash out later.
4. Coil each section. Place the comb at the root and twist in a circular motion, wrapping the hair around the teeth. Continue twisting down to the ends. The coil should hold its shape when you let go.
5. Repeat across the head. Work systematically from front to back or side to side. Consistency in your coiling technique ensures the locs look uniform as they mature.

Two-Strand Twist Method (Best for Medium to Long Hair)

1. Section the hair using the same grid pattern as above.
2. Divide each section into two equal strands.
3. Twist the two strands around each other from root to tip, wrapping in a consistent direction (clockwise or counterclockwise).
4. Apply a small amount of locking gel to hold the twist.
5. Secure the tip by twisting it tightly or using a small clip during the initial setting period.

Palm Roll Method (Best for Maintenance and Retwisting)

1. Place the loc between your palms at the root.
2. Roll your palms in one direction while applying light pressure, moving from root to tip.
3. Apply locking gel or oil as you roll to add hold and moisture.

This is the technique you’ll use most when clients come back for retwisting.

Maintenance & Aftercare

Locs are a long-term relationship between you and the client. Here’s what they need to know.

• Retwist every 4-6 weeks. New growth at the roots needs to be worked into the existing locs. Retwisting more often than every 3 weeks can thin the roots from too much tension.
• Wash every 1-2 weeks. Ignore the myth that locs shouldn’t be washed. Regular cleansing matters. Use a residue-free shampoo and skip conditioners with heavy oils that cause buildup. Squeeze to dry, don’t rub.
• Keep the scalp moisturized. A lightweight scalp oil (tea tree, peppermint, or rosemary) between washes prevents dryness and itching.
• Dry locs thoroughly. Locs that stay damp can develop mildew and odor. After washing, squeeze out excess water and let them air dry completely, or use a hooded dryer.
• Sleep with a satin covering. A satin bonnet or pillowcase reduces frizz and lint pickup.
• Avoid heavy products. Beeswax, heavy gels, and petroleum-based products create buildup that’s nearly impossible to get out of mature locs. Stick with lighter, water-based options.

Tools You’ll Need

• Rat-tail comb for sectioning and coiling
• Sectioning clips
• Locking gel or light-hold styling gel
• Scalp oil
• Spray bottle with water
• Hooded dryer (optional but useful)
• T-blade trimmer for cleaning up the hairline around the locs

Similar Styles

Man Bun, Undercut

Common Names

Locs, Locks, Dreads