What Is the Braids Hairstyle?

Braids are three or more strands of hair interwoven in a repeating pattern, either flat against the scalp (cornrows) or hanging freely. They’ve been around for thousands of years across African, Native American, and Celtic cultures, making them one of the oldest hairstyles that’s still actively requested in the chair today.

What keeps braids relevant is how many directions you can take them. Simple straight-back cornrows. Geometric, angular patterns. Detailed freestyle designs. Common variations include cornrows (braided flat against the scalp), box braids (sectioned into square or rectangular parts), French braids, feed-in braids, and freestyle work. Each one asks for a different level of skill and time.

Braids work on most hair types with enough length to grip, though they’re most commonly worn on type 3 and type 4 hair. They suit every face shape because you can customize the parting patterns and braid direction to fit the client’s features. For men, straight-back cornrows and two-strand braids are the most requested.

If you’re not offering braiding services, you’re leaving money on the table. Many barbers who specialize in braids charge by complexity and time, and the per-service revenue is solid.

How to Create Braids

The technique below covers cornrows, the most common braid style requested in a barbershop.

1. Wash and condition the hair. Clean hair braids better and lasts longer. Use a moisturizing conditioner to add slip and reduce tension during braiding.
2. Detangle thoroughly. Work through the hair with a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush. Start from the ends and work toward the roots.
3. Section the hair. Use a rat-tail comb to create clean, even parts. The width and direction of your parts determine the final look. For straight-back cornrows, part from the front hairline to the crown in evenly spaced rows.
4. Apply product. A light braiding gel or edge control on each section gives grip and hold without flaking. Stay away from heavy waxes that build up and cause breakage.
5. Start the braid. At the front of the section, divide the hair into three equal strands. Cross the right strand under the middle, then the left strand under the middle. That’s the foundation of a cornrow.
6. Feed in hair as you go. With each cross-under motion, pick up a small amount of hair from the section and add it to the active strand. Keep consistent tension. Too tight causes pain and traction alopecia. Too loose and the braids won’t hold.
7. Follow the part line. Guide the braid along the parted section, keeping it flat against the scalp. Your fingers should stay close to the head for a tight, clean cornrow.
8. Secure the ends. When you reach the nape or run out of hair to feed in, continue braiding the remaining length and secure with a small elastic band or by tucking the ends.
9. Repeat for each row. Work from one side of the head to the other, or from the center outward, depending on the pattern.
10. Clean up the edges. After all braids are in, use a trimmer to clean up the hairline for a polished finish. Edge control smoothed along the perimeter ties the whole look together.

Maintenance & Aftercare

Braids protect the hair, but they still need attention to last and to keep the scalp healthy.

• Moisturize the scalp. Braids expose the scalp, which dries out fast. A lightweight scalp oil (tea tree, peppermint, or jojoba) applied every 2-3 days keeps the skin hydrated and prevents flaking.
• Wrap at night. A satin or silk durag or bonnet reduces frizz and keeps braids looking fresh overnight.
• Avoid over-washing. Full washing can cause frizz and loosen the braids. Use a diluted apple cider vinegar rinse or witch hazel on a cotton pad to cleanse the scalp between washes instead.
• Retwist and touch up. New growth shows up within 2-3 weeks. The client should come back for a retwist or touch-up on the edges and any braids that have loosened. Full redo typically at 4-6 weeks.
• Don’t leave braids in too long. Keeping braids past 6-8 weeks increases the risk of matting, buildup, and traction alopecia. Make sure your clients know this.

Tools You’ll Need

• Rat-tail comb for parting
• Sectioning clips
• Braiding gel or edge control
• Spray bottle with water
• Small elastic bands
• T-blade trimmer for hairline cleanup
• Wide-tooth comb for detangling

Similar Styles

Man Bun, Undercut

Common Names

Cornrows, Box Braids, Plaits